Most climbers take weeks to reach the top of Mount Everest. They rely on oxygen tanks, thick ropes, and large support teams to survive the cold, thin air. But in May 2017, one man did what almost no one thought possible. Kilian Jornet, a Spanish mountain runner from Catalonia, climbed Everest twice in one week. He carried almost nothing. No oxygen. No ropes. No fear.
The story first appeared on his Instagram page and quickly spread across Reddit and mountaineering forums. Some called it one of the greatest endurance feats in history. Others wondered if it was even real.
Fast Facts
- Project: Everest double summit in one week without oxygen or ropes.
- Who: Kilian Jornet, Spanish ultramarathoner and alpinist.
- When: May 2017, two ascents completed in approximately 26 hours and 17 hours.
- How: Minimalist, solo style using precise pacing, acclimatization, and GPS tracking.
- Why it matters: Redefined human limits and sparked debate across mountaineering communities.
Who Is Kilian Jornet?
Kilian Jornet grew up in the Pyrenees Mountains, where he began climbing at the age of five. By his teenage years, he was already racing up peaks faster than most adults. Over time, he became one of the world’s best ultramarathon and ski mountaineering athletes.
He has set speed records on Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and Denali, and has won elite races like the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB) several times. His training is not just physical. He studies data, breathing, and recovery like a scientist fine-tuning an experiment.
In interviews, he describes his climbs as “a test to see what the human body can adapt to, not just what it can endure.”
How He Did It
In May 2017, Jornet climbed Everest from the north side in Tibet. He started his first ascent on May 20 and reached the summit after nearly 26 hours of continuous climbing. Five days later, he did it again in about 17 hours. Both climbs were completed without bottled oxygen, ropes, or Sherpa support.
He used a Suunto GPS watch to record his route and track his movement. When he lost the trail near 8,000 meters, he used the watch’s trackback feature to reorient himself. His gear was so minimal that his entire setup weighed less than a small backpack.
This approach, known as “fast and light,” is extremely dangerous. At that altitude, oxygen levels are only one-third of what humans normally breathe. According to research by the Himalayan Database, only about 3 percent of Everest climbers have ever reached the top without oxygen, and many who tried died attempting it.
The Internet Reaction
When Kilian posted his climb updates, social media exploded. On Reddit and Twitter, users debated whether it was humanly possible. Some said it was the future of mountaineering. Others accused him of exaggerating the record because there were no clear summit photos from the night climbs.
Even seasoned climbers weighed in. Reinhold Messner, the first person to summit Everest without oxygen in 1978, told National Geographic that Jornet’s approach was “the purest form of alpinism” and that his record “pushes the limits of physiology and courage.”
The Science Behind His Success
Experts studying human performance say Jornet’s achievements are partly due to genetics and partly due to years of training at altitude. He has spent most of his life above 6,000 feet, giving his body an extraordinary ability to use oxygen efficiently.
Dr. Jordi Segura, a sports physiologist at the University of Barcelona, notes that Jornet’s heart rate and oxygen uptake are closer to what scientists call “mountain-adapted physiology.” He can perform intense exercise at oxygen levels where most people can barely walk.
Facing Doubt and Controversy
Some questioned his claims, pointing to missing GPS data and lack of photographic proof. Jornet later addressed these concerns in his 2018 documentary Path to Everest. The film showed footage from his climbs and interviews with his support team. It proved that he did complete both ascents and revealed how close he came to collapse due to stomach illness.
Instead of fighting his critics, Jornet used the debate as fuel for education. He explained that his goal was never to impress anyone but to “understand how much the human body can do when we strip away everything unnecessary.”
A Geek’s Approach to Mountains
Jornet’s mindset mirrors that of a computer hacker debugging complex code. He analyzes every variable in his environment and body until the mountain becomes a system he can optimize. His climbs are not about breaking records but about rewriting the rules of what’s possible.
In his book Summits of My Life, he writes, “You cannot conquer mountains. You can only move within them for a short time.”
His calm, data-driven approach and humility turned him into a role model not only for athletes but also for people obsessed with human potential.
What’s Next for Kilian Jornet
Since his double Everest ascent, Jornet has continued to push boundaries. In 2024, he completed the Alpine Connections project, summiting all 82 peaks above 4,000 meters in the Alps. He also launched the Kilian Jornet Foundation, which focuses on preserving mountain environments and promoting sustainable outdoor practices.
Today, his message is simple: you don’t need to be superhuman to do something extraordinary. You need curiosity, preparation, and respect for the challenge.
Final Thought
Kilian Jornet didn’t just climb Everest twice. He redefined what it means to explore human limits. In a world where people rely on technology to make things easier, Jornet proved that sometimes the greatest breakthrough comes from taking less, not more.
His story reminds us that “geekiness” is not just about computers or code. It’s about obsession, precision, and the courage to test the limits of what’s possible.